Solara Interior Lighting: Illuminated Entry
I made up this tutorial to teach you how to install under dash lights for illuminated entry in the gen1 and gen1.5 Toyota Solara. I have included a feature that allows the lights to be manually switched on while driving/standing or any other time you would like the lights on when the doors aren't open.
Tools required:
philips head screwdriver
10mm socket wrench
wire strippers
wire (speaker wire is cheap and works well)
electrical tape
12 volt test light or multimeter highly recommended
two prong rocker switch or comparable (if you desire manual operation)
STEP 1: REMOVING THE DRIVER'S SIDE KNEE PANEL
remove the screw near the gas pedal
remove the two screws holding the hood release in and take off the hood release lever
The fourth screw holding the plastic panel on is located behind the molding that runs along the sill of the driver's door. Pull up on the indicated parts of the molding to expose the final screw. Once all the screws are removed, pull the entire panel out. The knee panel will still be held in place by 3 clips at the upper part of the panel. Apply a little force to remove it completely.
STEP 2: REMOVING THE STEEL PLATE
This plate is held in by four 10mm bolts. Easy enough.
You must unclip the white plug at the bottom to make removal easier.
STEP 3: WIRING
Find the red wire with a white stripe in the plug indicated.
When either the driver or passenger door trigger is activated (i.e. door open - dome light will be on), this wire becomes negative (ground). Verify this with your test light. This wire will become our "variable ground".
Remove the plug for easier access. Strip back some insulation on the red/white wire - do not cut. Splice into the exposed wire.
Now we need to find a constant 12 volt source to tap into. There are many places to tap into power under the steering column and having the test light makes one easier to locate. I chose a white and silver wire to run my inline fuse (15amp) up to. However, there is a quicker and easier way to do this. Auto supply stores sell fuses that have a small metal prong coming out of the top that accessories can be hooked up to. It is definitely the more reliable way, and it makes having an inline fuse unnecessary because the circuit is already protected.
Now that we have our constant 12 volts and variable ground, you can splice these connections with the corresponding positive and negative leads of your under dash lights and you are done. Your lights will switch on when the either door is open and go off shortly after, just like your dome light.
If you want to have a manual switch operation in addition to illuminated entry, we must run a third lead to any metal part of the chassis. You can see where I grounded mine. This will be our "constant ground".
STEP 4: making all the connections
Connect the constant ground to one prong of your switch. Run a wire from the other prong of the switch and twist it around the negative leads from the both lights and the variable ground. Hook the positive leads of your lights up to the constant 12 volt source.
The completed circuit. The line to the passenger lights can be easily tucked under the center console. My switch found its home in the change tray to the left of the steering column.
Now just tuck in your wires securely and replace the panels. Mount your lights wherever you need them.
